Vanuatu

In 1980, this string of lush green islands was transformed from the ponderous Anglo-French New Hebrides Condominium into the Ripablik Blong Vanuatu. Since then, the country has expressed its independence by developing a national identity based on Melanesian kastom. It's a colorful land of many cultures, full of fascinating surprises. Make discoveries for yourself by asking any ni-Vanuatu (indigenous inhabitant) for the nearest cave, waterfall, swimming hole, hot spring, blowhole, or cliff. The general beauty and relaxed way of life are Vanuatu's biggest attractions.

No other South Pacific country harbors as many local variations. The glamorous duty-free shops, casinos, hotels, resorts, and gourmet restaurants of the cosmopolitan capital, Port Vila on Efate Island, contrast sharply with unchanging, traditional villages just over the horizon. You'll be moved and touched by the friendliness, warmth, and sincerity of the ni-Vanuatu. Away from the packaged day tours and commercial resorts, this unpolished jewel of the South Pacific islands is an ideal adventure travel destination.

The Land

	Vanuatu beach

The 83 islands of Vanuatu (the name means "Land Eternal") stretch north-south 1,300 km, from the Torres Islands near Santa Cruz in the Solomons to minuscule Matthew and Hunter Islands (also claimed by France) east of New Caledonia. This neat geographical unit is divided into three groups: the Torres and Banks Islands in the north, the Y-shaped central group from Espiritu Santo and Maewo to Efate, and the Tafea islands (Tanna, Aniwa, Futuna, Erromango, and Aneityum) in the south. Together they total 12,189 square km, of which the 12 largest islands account for 93%. Espiritu Santo and Malekula alone comprise nearly half of Vanuatu's land area.

Vanuatu sits on the west edge of the Pacific Plate next to the 8,000-meter-deep New Hebrides Trench. This marks the point where the Indo-Australian Plate slips under the Pacific Plate in a classic demonstration of plate tectonics. Its islands are pushed laterally 10 centimeters a year in a northwest direction, accompanied by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. In the past three million years Vanuatu has also been uplifted 700 meters, or approximately two millimeters a year. 

Highlights

The overwhelming majority of tourists visit only Efate, Espiritu Santo, and Tanna, and indeed these three islands contain Vanuatu's best-known sights, including the country's only towns, Port Vila and Luganville. Tanna is acclaimed for Yasur Volcano and the Jon Frum Cargo Cult, Efate has an interesting road around its coast, and Espiritu Santo boasts one of the South Pacific's finest beaches. Ambrym is less known but outstanding for its active volcanoes. Virtually all of the islands are worth visiting by those willing to slow down and enjoy the unspoiled local environment and friendly people. It's easy to get lost and found in Vanuatu.

Activities

Scuba diving is well developed with several active dive shops in Port Vila and a couple more at Santo. Game fishing is available at Port Vila. Other active sports to pursue are windsurfing in Vila's Erakor Lagoon, horseback riding at one of the two ranches on opposite sides of Port Vila, and yachting on a charter vessel based at Port Vila.  Golf is big here, with two major 18-hole golf courses on Efate and smaller resort courses at two Port Vila hotels. There's also a golf course at Santo.

All of the above is the domain of tourists, expatriates, and affluent locals; hiking is the sport most commonly practiced by the vast majority of the population, although they'd hardly think of it as such. Well-used trails exist on all the outer islands, with Tanna especially accessible in this regard. It's quite possible to hike right across islands like Tanna, Malekula, and Erromango. Hiking around Espiritu Santo is a much bigger undertaking with local guides required.

Mountain climbers should consider the active volcanoes of Ambrym: Benbow and Marum in the south and Vetlam in the north. All are quite accessible to those willing to hire local guides and pay custom fees to the local chiefs. Ambae also has a central peak worth a climb. There are many other possibilities.

Getting There

The country's flag carrier, Air Vanuatu, flies to Port Vila from Sydney, Nouméa, Brisbane, Honiara, Nadi, and Auckland. Pacific Blue has flights from Australia.

Other airlines arriving here include Aircalin from Nouméa, Solomon Airlines from Honiara, and Air Pacific from Nadi. The most direct route from North America is on Air Pacific's nonstop Los Angeles-Nadi service, connecting in Fiji for Vanuatu. Air Pacific also offers connections to/from Tokyo. A departure tax of Vt.2,500 in local currency is payable on international flights (often included in the ticket price).

Getting Around

Government-owned Vanair offers more than 150 weekly services to 29 airstrips on 18 islands, with four 20-passenger Twin Otters based at Port Vila and Espiritu Santo. You can fly from Port Vila to Espiritu Santo four times a day, once or twice daily via Norsup. Flights from Port Vila to Tanna run three times a day, via Ipota or Dillon's Bay once or twice weekly.

Interisland boat travel is far less common and more difficult in Vanuatu than it is in Fiji or Solomon Islands. Taking a boat from Port Vila to Luganville isn't really for the transportation, as it's not that much cheaper than the plane and the journey takes three or four days on deck (no cabins available). It's only worth considering for the experience of the voyage itself, and you do get to see the coastlines of many remote islands at stops along the way.